What to do in Madagascar.

Kite and Windsurfing, Emerald Sea (Fly to Diego). Between April and November there is a constant 30 knot wind making this one of the best surfing spots in the southern hemisphere.

Guided Kayaking, Ile Sainte Marie. See the country from a different angle. Explore the coastline of beautiful Sainte Marie with a local guide. Overnight at different local hotels each night and interact with the people. Explore villages and relax in hidden coves. Crystal clear and calm water – no experience required and one does not have to be ultra-fit. 

Deep Sea Fishing, Nosy Be. Get away from the overfished waters of Nosy Be and head out, in luxury, to the Radamas or Mitsio islands. Sailfish, Kingfish, King Mackerel and Wahoo all waiting for you. The waters off the south west coast are also good for fishing.

Wildlife Tour. Madagascar’s plant and animal species are extraordinary (over 80% exist nowhere else), so visitors shouldn’t miss seeing the Lemurs, Tortoise, Geckos, Chameleons and unusual flora. Roads are dismal, however, and the country’s minimal infrastructure makes it challenging for independent travellers. Book a tour with a reputable company that knows the country well.

What to buy

There are MCB or BFV or BNI banks ATMs in most cities and towns. Visa cards and Master cards are accepted.

Shoppers will find much to buy in the country. Spices, such as vanilla, are a great souvenir and a great value.

An exception to all of this is transportation, which can be ruinously expensive for the casual traveller. Air Madagascar charges tourists double on all tickets. Limited public transportation means that the only alternative to a taxi-brousse (which can be erratically scheduled or not available in many areas) is a private car or boat hire.

What to eat

Voanjobory sy henakisoa, a traditional dish in Madagascar made of Bambara groundnut cooked with pork

Ravimbomanga sy patsamena consists of potato leaves stewed with dried shrimp and beef served over rice.

The cheapest way to get a meal is to eat at a “hotely” or at market places. Simple meals include a plate of rice, laoka (malagasy for side dish accompanying rice) like chicken, beans or pork, and rice water. ‘Compose’ is a small salad that often includes potato salad and some other vegetables. The same is also available on a baguette. Soups in various kinds, often including pasta are also very popular.

Bananas (hundreds of varieties) and rice cakes (Malagasy ‘bread’) are staple ‘street food’ and available everywhere. Coffee is very good, usually hand-made by the cup and served very sweet with condensed milk. Steak-frites is available in restaurants in the larger towns.

Supermarkets

There are three big supermarket chains in Madagascar. Shoprite, Score and Leader Price. all three Western style supermarket chains are well stocked, but the expensive prices reflect the need to import just about everything. There are many Shoprite and Leader price branded goods but also some more local produce (veg, spices etc, far cheaper than any of street markets). Shoprite is a slightly cheaper and has stores in Antananarivo, Mahajanga, Toamasina and Antsirabe. (Shoprite is a South African owned chain with stores in 15 African countries)

What to drink

While in general tap water is considered not safe, in most cities it seldom causes problems. Bottled water can be found almost everywhere. The same holds for Fanta, Coca Cola, … Bonbon Anglais, and various beers like Three Horses Beer (THB), Castel, Queens, Skol, … Locals often drink rum because it is much cheaper than beer. Natural and not so natural juices can also readily be found. Another option is ranon’apango (RAN-oo-na-PANG-oo) or rice water (water used to cook rice, which will therefore have been boiled) which is often served when eating in local places. It’s particularly important to plan ahead if visiting rural areas. It is worth taking with you some chlorine tablets, which can be used to make the local water drinkable.

Home brewed rum, and creme de coco, is also available – in many flavours!

Respect

Everyday life in Madagascar is regulated by numerous fady (taboos) which vary from one region to another. They can forbid foods (pork, lemur, turtle… ), wearing clothes of a particular color, bathing in a river or a lake. Observance of “fady” is mostly limited to rural areas, as tourists will most likely not run into this problem if they stay in the main towns. However, there are fadies in places such as Antananarivo but most Vazaha are exempt.

Fady are attributed to ancestors, to whom Malagasy adopt a respectful attitude whatever their religion. It is safest to respect these prohibitions and not violate them, even if you feel they don’t make sense. Inform yourself about local fady when you arrive in a new place.

When addressing anyone older than you or in a position of authority (e.g. police, military, customs officials), use the word “tompoko (TOOMP-koo)” the same way you would use “sir” or “ma’am” in English. Respect for elders and authority figures is important in Madagascar.

Do not ever take photos of a tomb without permission. Always ask permission before taking photos. Also, if you go to a remote village or hamlet, it is fomba, or tradition, that you first meet with the head of the village if you have business in the village.