The Old Town,

Old town (Altstadt). The Old Town of Düsseldorf is famous. Almost completely destroyed during World War 2, it was rebuilt according to historic plans on its foundation walls, which makes it look like a real historic town. Every house of the quarter, except one – see chapter “Neander Church”. Today the old town is a popular shopping mall, and at night and on weekends it turns into the so-called “longest bar of the world”. Within one square kilometer, you will find about 260 bars, coffee shops and snug brewing houses. The old town is the home of “Altbier”, a top-fermented, dark beer. They say it tastes best at the historical brewing houses. There, the “Köbesse” (local dialect: waiters) may be somewhat harsh but they are warm hearted. If your beer glass is empty the next “Alt” comes without you even having to order it. Many times the first “Alt” comes without even having to order it!

Foreign guests might not know that there is rivalry between the citizens of Düsseldorf and their neighbors in Cologne. So never ever order a “Kölsch” (a light beer brewed in Cologne) in Düsseldorf. If you do, some people might become very unfriendly. If they see you are a foreigner they will no doubt forgive you, but might be trouble.

Characteristic Rhenish dishes like Düsseldorfer Senfrostbraten (mustard roast pork), „Rheinischer Sauerbraten (marinated beef with raisins), Halve Hahn (rye slice, slice of cheese, mustard and gherkin) or Ähzezupp (pea soup) are offered everywhere within the old town. But besides bars and inns you will find some recommended sights inside the old town. Bolkerstrasse 56 is the birth place of Heinrich Heine 1797 – 1856), a poet and author and Düsseldorf’s most famous citizen. Next to the old town is the River Rhine with its nice promenade.

“Schneider-Wibbel-Gasse” (Tailor-Wibbel-Lane) is the name of a small lane inside the old town, connecting Bolkerstrasse and Flingerstrasse. It is packed with restaurants and bars, most of them offering Spanish-American and Latino-American food. The lane is named for Tailor Wibbel, the main character of a popular theatre play written by Hans-Müller Schlösser in 1913. Wibbel had opposed Napoleon and, therefore, was sent to prison. But, instead of himself, his assistant went to jail under the name of Wibbel. Unfortunately, the assistent died in prison as a result of a former disease. They drove down the assumed Wibbel, and so he was able to witness his own burial incognito. After the end of the French occupation, Wibbel could reveal his identity and became a local hero. Across Bolkerstrasse is the Wibble-Play-Watch. Daily, at 11, 13, 15, 18 and 21 o’clock, it tells the story of Tailor Wibbel. At the other end of the Lane, near Flingerstrasse, sits the Wibble sculpture. Walk nearby and examine the sculpture. Did you see the mouse?

Inside the old town, but everywhere in the city also, you will find lots of marvelous old gas lamps. Düsseldorf has more gas lamps than any other city in Germany outside Berlin.

The Burgplatz (Castle-Square) is situated at the old town limits next to the Rhine. One upon a time here was the castle of the Earls of Berg, the later duke of Jülich-Kleve-Berg. Later the castle was reconstructed to a baroque palace, which burned down in 1872. In 1888 the ruins were removed completely, leaving only a single tower. Today the tower houses an inland navigation museum. The coffee-shop in the tower’s top offers a grand view onto the Rhine and the ships passing by. The square was named one of the nicest squares in Germany after WW2.

The promenade on the bank of Rhine is one of the most beautiful in Germany, and it is situated on the correct side, the right bank, because the sun shines onto this side all day long (the citizens of Cologne used to say the left bank of the Rhine is the correct one because the centre of Cologne is situated there), The promenade leads from Parliament via Mannesmannufer, Rathausufer, Burgplatz, and Tonhalle to Rhine-Park. It was created by constructing a tunnel in 1993 and routing cars underground, so that the riverside became a pedestrian area. Most gangways for boat trips on the Rhine are situated near Burgplatz. Many coffee shops offer seats outside where you can watch and be watched when the weather is nice. The pavement of the promenade is artwork too; its sinuous design reflects the waves on the river.

St. Lambertus Basilika, built with bricks in the Lower Rhine Gothic style, is a landscape of Düsseldorf. Particularly characteristic is the winding tower. Although there are legends saying they used wet arbors for reconstructing after a fire in 1815, people know better. About 100 years ago, a bride dressed in a snow-white wedding dress came to the altar pretending to be a virgin. Being ashamed the tower turned aside. They also say that it will straighten again if a real virgin appears at the altar. As you can clearly see, the tower is still twisted. But the fact is the citizens love their twisted tower. After the war, they reconstructed it as twisted as it was before. The church-hall was the last residence of St. Apollinaris, the city’s patron.

Follow the Lambertus-Street beside the church to Stiftsplatz. The square breathes a contemplative tranquility, only 100 Meters outside the loud old town. Continue on Lambertus-Street, and near the crossing with “Liefergasse” you’ll see on the left a marvelous house front. There are many fine fronts in Düsseldorf, but this one is among the prettiest.

The Neander-church has its own history too. The population of the Rhinelands is mainly Catholic, and Protestants and members of the Reformed Church had to suffer many restrictions. Finally, the contract of Rheinberg in 1682 granted everybody the free practice of religion. This led to the construction of the Reformed church-house at Bolkerstrasse in 1683 in the early baroque style with a simplified façade. Although the Protestants and members of the reformed church had the right to build their own churches, they were not liked. So the new church had to be built in the yard of already existing buildings, so it wouldn’t be visible from the street. But today you have an unlimited view of the church from Bolkerstrasse because the building that hid it was the only one within the old town not rebuild after the war. In 1916, the church got the name Neander-Church.

Neander – if this name reminds you of prehistoric men you are absolutely right. A man named Joachim Neander worked as an assistant priest for the reformed religious community of Düsseldorf between 1674 and 1679. He became known as a composer of many chants. For inspiration he often visited a wild and natural valley east of Düsseldorf. To honor him, this valley was named Neander-Valley in about 1800. It was in this Valley that in 1856 were found the bones of prehistoric men, the famous Neandertal-man.

City Monument

The City Monument at Burgplatz is an artwork of Bert Gerresheim, donated by the society “Düsseldorfer Jongens” on occasion of the 700th anniversary of town foundation. It is a kaleidoscope of local history, starting on left side with the cruel battle of Worringen, the signing of foundation documents by the earl of Berg in the middle and several scenes on right side including 4 popes. Among them we see Nikolaus IV raising St. Lambertus Church to a canon monastery. A market scene is shown, but also trade goods of Düsseldorf. The Monument is full of symbols. You should go nearby and take account of details. You also should go some steps back. Mind the men following the apocalyptic horse riders on left side. Their arms form the number 1288, the year of the battle of Worringen. During the battle, the Earl of Berg, Adolf V, fought against the archbishop of Cologne, Sigfried of Westerburg. The citizens of Düsseldorf and, hard to understand if you know about the today’s difficult relationship between the cities, the citizens of Cologne backed Adolf V. The battle ended with the victory of the earl and the citizens.

On the right hand of the monument is a little river, named the northern Düssel. It gave the city its name (Düsseldorf means village at Düssel). The balustrade is an artwork of Bert Gerreshein too. It is also full of symbols.

City Hall and Jan Wellem in front

The historic city hall of Düsseldorf dates from the 16th century. Since then it houses the city parliament. The Building consists of three parts; there are guided tours for free every Wednesday at 15:00 o’clock. They will show you the council hall, the Jan-Wellem hall and the reception hall of the Lord Mayor where they present the city’s silver coins and roof-paintings of the artists Domenico Zanetti and Johannes Spilberg.

In front of the city hall is the monument of elector Johann Wilhelms II, (1658-1716) on horseback. The citizens call him affectionately Jan Wellem. His monument is among the most important baroque equestrian sculptures north the Alps. Because of his connections to European dynasties and by the powers invested in him he was a very important man. In co-operation with other electors he elected the German Emperor. He was a representative of a pompous baroque sovereign. In 1691 he married Anna Maria Luisa de‘ Medici (1667-1743). Jan Wellem died in 1716, his gravesite is in St. Andreas-Church. Jan Wellem boosted the development of Düsseldorf, therefore the citizens still love him. The monument was realized by Gabriel Grupello in 1711.

Cast Boy

At the side of market square, in the shadow of Jan Wellem, stands the statue of the cast boy. They say that just before the cast of the Jan Wellem monument master Grupello realized that the amount of metal was not sufficient. This let the cast boy ask the citizens for a donation of noble metal like silver forks or coins. He got so much that the cast could be finished very well. Out of thankfulness he got a statue too. The one you see today was designed by Willi Hoselmann and realized in 1932.

Media Harbor. At the southern end of the Rhine promenade you will find the newest landmark of Düsseldorf, the so called Media Harbor. The former harbor was transformed in a quarter with restaurants, bars, coffee shops, discotheques and hotels. Its flair is based on the mixture of old and new. Protected buildings like depots, quay walls and industrial surroundings stand side by side with modern architecture. There are buildings constructed by Frank O. Gehry, Claude Vasconi or David Chipperfield. Mainly the Gehry buildings form the face of the quarter.

Probably you have already seen those guys standing on advertising columns, the so called pillar saints. There are nine of them, it is a project of artist Christoph Pöggeler (born in 1958 in Münster/Westphalia). Humans removed from their daily routine and putted on a pedestal, become noticeable as individuals again and also refer to groups of society like children, business men, vagabonds and strangers. The position of the sculptures is:

• Business Man: Joseph-Beuys-Ufer, Düsseldorf 2001
• Marlis: Stromstraße, WDR, Düsseldorf 2001
• Couple I: Burgplatz, Düsseldorf 2002
• Tourist: Kaiserswerther Straße, Düsseldorf 2003
• Father and Son: Oststraße, Düsseldorf 2003
• Photographer: Hauptbahnhof, Düsseldorf 2004
• Couple II: Berger Allee, Düsseldorf 2004
• Stranger: Schlossufer, Düsseldorf 2005
• Bride: Schulstraße/ Ecke Citadellstraße, Düsseldorf 2006

The 240m high Rhine Tower is right on the Rhine river, near the Media Harbor. It offers a 360-degree view from the restaurant, at 172 m. The restaurant is overpriced, but it is worth a trip for the amazing view.

Carlstadt is situated south the old town, it is the link between it and the styled Media Harbor. Many houses of Carlstadt have a baroque facade, what gives the quarter a special flair. A lot of artists have their atelier there. Also you find there trendy boutiques, antiquaries and art shops, many of them in Bilker-Strasse. Additional shops and coffee bars are in Hohe Strasse. I also recommend a walk along Citadellstrasse, Schulstrasse and across Anna-Maria-Luisa-de’ Medici-Square. This streets offer the most original flair of the days of foundation. Centre of Carltadt ist Carls-Square. Here is market on weekdays, citizens and tourists like it. They offer food, sweets, flowers and popular artworks.

By order of elector Carl Theodor the architect Nicolas de Pigage planned and implemented the first public park in Germany, named Hofgarten. It became the prototype of the English Garden of Munich. In the oldest part of Hofgarten you find the Jröne Jong (local dialect, meaning green boy). From there the “Riding Alley” leads strait forward to palace Jägerhof, which today houses the Goethe-Museum. People like the self-luminous park benches on Riding Alley. And last not least Hofgarten houses some sculptures of famous artist.

The North-Park, on the right bank of Rhine in the northern city, is one of the major Parks in Düsseldorf. It’s most interesting part is the Japanese garden inside, a gift of the Japanese community to the citizens. Within about 5000 square meters you will find an example of Japanese horticulture with traditional Elements like stones, trees, bushes, ponds and bridges. Entrance is for free.

In the quarter of Oberkassel is the EKO-House, the house of Japanese culture. It is Europe’s first and unique Buddhist temple, surrounded by several Buildings like Kindergarten and a library. The garden is styled like a Japanese garden. There are guided tours, but if you mind the dignity of the location they will not prevent you from stepping in during daytime. Address: Brüggener Weg 6, 40547 Düsseldorf.

Benrath Palace and Park. The Corps de Logis is the central building of the three-wing maison de plaisance, which was erected for the Palatine Elector Carl Theodor by his garden and building director Nicolas de Pigage. Construction was completed in 1770: it is a complete work of art that unites architecture and nature in one overlapping concept, and is rated as one of the most beautiful palaces of the rococo epoch. The park beside the Palace is enormous, nearly 62,000 square meters.

Königsallee. The main street of Düsseldorf is called “Kö” by the locals and consists of two streets divided by a canal.

Kaiserswerth. Kaiserswerth is one of the oldest parts of the city of Düsseldorf and is located in the north of the city and next to the river Rhine. (Ubahn stop: Klemensplatz) Kaiserswerth is home to the ruin the Kaiserpfalz, a thousand years old castle, and to many other historic Buildings like the Kaiserswerther Diakonie, which is the place where famous Florence Nightingale worked. Through its historic buildings, beautiful landscape, cafes and it’s near to the Rhine, Kaiserswerth is the perfect place to spend a Relaxing sunny day without the city centers masses of people.

Benrather Schlosspark, Benrather Schloss Allee. This is a big park with a beautiful palace, Museums, a Bibliothek, a cafe and beautiful sculptures and also a vegetable garden, where you can buy regional vegetables. The Benrather Schlosspark (Schloss means Palace) is located in the southern area of Düsseldorf, which is called Benrath. It’s home to the baroque pleasure palace of Elector Palatine Charles Theodore and his wife Countess Elizabeth Auguste of Sulzbach, build by Nicolas de Pigage from 1755 to 1770. The main building can be visited for guided tours. The two wings house two museums since 2002: the Museum for European Garden Art in the east wing and the Museum of Natural History in the west wing. The buildings are surrounded by beautiful gardens and lakes. The Rhine, with small beaches and beautiful surrounding area, also can be reached through the park.